Royal watchers may be familiar with the word kokoshnik to describe a particular tiara style that was wildly fashionable during the early part of the 20th century. But it’s roots are ancient and fascinating – taking us back into pre-revolutionary Russian times.
The actual genesis of this particular headdress style has roots dating back as early as 10th century Russia. By the 18th and the 19th century, the beautiful craze spread throughout northern Russia. The women of that time had developed distinctly traditional costumes, complete with elaborate headgear called kokoshniks.
So it should come as no surprise that this beloved Russian motif morphed into diamond and gemstone encrusted kokoshnik tiaras – first for the Russians, and later by other European royal households.
Traditional Charm
Historically, a kokoshnik headdress was worn by married women and it was created in various styles. In its earliest times, this type of head covering was for married women only. But because of its popularity, a later variation of head covering showing a bit of front hair and a translucent veil was adopted for young maidens as well. The girl’s version was a bit open in the back too. So it easily distinguished them from the married women of the day.
Taking a Turn in Diamonds
When the Russian national culture revival emerged in the early 19th century, kokoshnik-like tiaras became the official headdress for Russian royalty and their ladies in waiting.
After the tragic upheaval surrounding the 1917 Revolution, Russian émigrés popularized the kokoshnik within European countries. A striking kokoshnik tiara would be seen as early as 1893, in the wedding headdress of Mary of Teck, who would become the British Queen consort.
By the 20th century, historical records show Queen Marie of Romania wore a Cartier tiara resembling a Russian kokoshnik for her 1924 portrait. The style has continued to be favored among nobility who have an occasion to wear tiaras – extending into our modern times.
The beauty of the kokoshnik design is that it creates an angelic halo-like effect surrounding the face of the wearer. That will never go out of style.
Modern Times
When Britain’s Princess Eugenie was married in 2018, she wore ‘something borrowed’ (from her grandmother the Queen) in the form of the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara – proving that everything old is new again.
The Greville Emerald Tiara was created circa 1921 by Boucheron for Dame Margaret Greville. When she died in 1941, Greville famously bequeathed her sumptuous jewels to Elizabeth the Queen Mother.
This glamorous kokoshnik tiara had not been seen publicly for decades – prompting speculation that it was no longer part of the Royal jewels held in its vaults. But when Eugenie wore it on her wedding day, this enduring style proved to be as timeless and modern as the 21st century.
